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October 22
Clare, Auburn and Sevenhill
The first lesson of the day was that if you leave an MP3 player for a week
without using it or charging it, it goes flat. The second was that my pedometer
only works if it is attached to a rigid belt. As my shorts don't use such
a thing, the wee machine went haywire. These things apart, the planning
paid off and everything worked.
I left the cottage, accompanied by howls from Isabella, parked the car
down the road by the log pile, as instructed, and walked up Stanley Street
to the main road.
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Stanley Street, Clare
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Ducati owners
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No sooner had I arrived there than the exodus of the Ducati Owners who
had been filling the town overnight, started. Groups of bikes drove along
the main road for a considerable period of time.
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Empty road
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but the bus appears on time
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Then, much to my relief and almost exactly on time, the bus appeared and
stopped in front of me. A very cheery driver welcomed me aboard and we
trundled gently along for about 20 minutes until we reached Auburn. Once
there, everyone got off for a scheduled breakfast stop and I turned round
and started walking back to Clare.
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Breakfast stop for the bus
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Auburn - quiet before breakfast
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It was a distinctly crisp morning, with a clear blue sky and a breeze blowing
from over my right shoulder. This made it quite chilly and I wore my jacket
throughout the day.
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An un-marked Trail
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But a good, smooth surface
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The start of the Trail is unmarked. Not a good sign. The surface looked
encouraging, however. When I walked the Central Otago Rail Trail, my feet
were wrecked by the large rough pebbles with which it was surfaced. This
trail had very fine gravel. By the end of the walk I am able to report
that my feet showed no signs of wear and tear. It was the rest of me that
wore out.
After about 5 minutes, the Trail forked, with no directions given. I was
about to chose the high road when I realised that it turned sharp left
after the junction, which seemed unlikely for an old railway line. I took
the low road, which turned out to be the right choice.
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Riesling Trail speak with forked path
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Olives to the left
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Grapes to the right
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Pine plantation with hazardous weapons
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There were vineyards and olive groves to both sides which then gave way
to a pine plantation, which had shed large fir cones across the path. Luckily
none of them landed on my head as I would have been struck a nasty blow.
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Blue stone outcrop
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Possible quarry site
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The fields to the left opened out and a sign pointed to the old Mellor
Quarry on the right. I can't say I could actually identify it but it seems
to have been an important source of blue stone for use in Auburn and even
some significant buildings in Adelaide. It is now entered in the State
Heritage Register. Shortly afterwards, I did see an outcrop of blue stones
on the side of the Trail.
There were a few farms and at one of them the chickens were running around
at the side of the Trail but they weren't too keen on my approach & went
into hiding.
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Chooks in the undergrowth
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Another person - at last!
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At long last, another person appeared, a woman with a pram. I hoped that
she hadn't come from Clare that morning, which would have put my own efforts
into perspective.
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More grapes ...
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... and more trees
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I entered into a cutting, a sign that the Trail really had once been a
railway line, and then re-emerged into open country, with a large but almost
empty irrigation pond on one side. It has to be said that everything looked
quite green, even the edges of the Trail. I had expected everything to
be very brown.
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Into a cutting
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Irrigation pond
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The Trail descended towards a road, passing what must have been one of
the old bridge abutments. And then rose up again to the other side.
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Bridge abutments
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Artwork
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Artwork and shelter
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Neighbouring bench
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Here there was a shelter with seats and a modern sculpture. This was constructed
of local slate, steel etc etc and, so the signs informed me, symbolised
a platform, railway lines, points etc etc.
I studied the sculpture with interest rather than enthusiasm, reserving
that for the seats, of which I made full use after an hour on my feet.
At least the sculpture showed that the Authorities are taking an interest
in the welfare of the Trail.
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I progressed slowly but steadily, passing a board detailing the history
of the tribes who lived in the area before the Europeans arrived and then
decimated them with flu, TB and the like. In more recent years, they have
relied on alcohol to achieve the same result.
Another small bench allowed me to rest and prepare myself for some more
effort.
More open spaces, more cuttings, and then a huge new processing plant.
I was later told that this belonged to O'Leary Walker Wines, who process
grapes from the Adelaide Hills as well as from local sources.
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Elegant tree on the Trail
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O'Leary Walker winery
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Leasingham station arrived, complete with the old station sign and some
more abutments. The Old Copper Road passed through here, the route by which
the copper ore from the Burra mine, which I was to visit in a couple of
days, was transported to the coast at Port Wakefield. Another pair of cyclists
passed me but, throughout the day, I only saw about 8 people.
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Leasingham
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Interesting rocks
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A pair of cyclists
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On the outskirts of Watervale, I wandered nearly a kilometre off the Trail,
down a side road and into the village.
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Off the Trail ...
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... past the smart houses
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Inconsiderate geese
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and beautiful school grounds
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There were some very smart looking houses, a couple of geese, who refused
to face the camera, and some wonderful flowers in the school grounds.
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Watervale Hotel and Library
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Once on the main road again, I made a beeline for the pub, which had more
nice flowers on the outside and cold beers on the inside. I had a quick
one and then, at the landlord's suggestion, walked past the Library and
round the corner to Crabtree wines.
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Crabtree Wines
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The nice lady at Crabtree poured me lots of large measures of wine, both
red and white, which I happily slurped while we chatted. I explained that
I was walking and not buying but she wasn't the least bit concerned. When
I asked if the wine was available in New Zealand, she said that it wasn't
but that they were on the lookout for an agent. I gave her some suggestions.
I just hope that they come to fruition.
Her Rieslings were good, there was a very unusual Muscat based wine and
some stunning reds, particularly a cabernet shiraz. Outside the door of
the tasting room were 3 large chickens, which effectively blocked the path
as I tried to leave.
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Up the hill ...
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... to Watervale Station
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I lurched uphill to the old station, where I sat and ate my lunch in the
shelter. This one actually had some water tanks for the benefit of passers
by. My own supplies, however, were proving adequate, particularly with
the liquid I had taken on board at the pub.
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Watervale shelter
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Fierce local resident
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A couple on bikes appeared with a dog. I had seen them before, at my first
stop, when the dog was running happily around. By this time it was looking
distinctly tired and went to sleep under the shelter. Its daddy said that
it was a working dog and always refused a ride on the farm quad bike, irrespective
of how tired it was. They also told me about the snakes they had seen,
which was very encouraging. All I had spotted was a baby rabbit, which
didnt seem threatening.
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Just round the corner was the Stephen Jones Vineyard. I had been told that
he was a top level wine judge and he had a much smaller range than Crabtree.
The Riesling had won many awards. The Pinot Noir was odd and I liked the
Tawny Port enough to decide to return tomorrow in the car to buy a bottle.
The vineyard buildings were very pretty whilst the yard was more akin to
a scruffy farm
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The Trail continued on its merry way, past more irrigation ponds, through
tree-lined areas and past vineyards which seemed to have more pretty flowers
than grapes.
Eventually, I passed under the main road, which has a large new bridge.
There was a fascinating old cottage and then I reached Penwortham Station.
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Penwortham Bridge
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Old cottage
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Penwortham Station
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It was becoming hot as the breeze had dropped and I was beginning to feel
tired. The Church at Penwortham is supposedly on the Trail - but only if
you want to climb over a wire fence.
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View from Penwortham Station
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Penwortham Church
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The Trail converged with the road again, and the surrounding countryside
changed from grapes to farmland, with a few cows, sheep and horses to be
seen.
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Trail and road meet again
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Some animals, at last
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Eventually, I dragged myself to Sevenhill station, which still had an intact
platform as well as a signboard.
This gave me the opportunity for a final rest before I marched the kilometre
(or a bit less) down the hill into the village and through the front door
of the pub for a much needed beer. The pub was nothing much to look at
from the outside but the landlord was friendly and the Coopers Pale was
cold. What more could a walker want? It has to be said that the pubs on
this Trail are much better than those on the Otago Rail Trail.
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Down the hill ...
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... to the Sevenhill Hotel
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Opposite the pub (Hotel really although it doesn't do accommodation) is
Rosella Cottage, a huge and antiquated edifice (1858 I think it said) which
is intended to be a mini conference centre.
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Rosella Cottage
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Main bedroom
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Bathroom
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Lounge
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The rooms are all dark and furnished in period style. Not as cosy as last
night but there is a working bedroom, bathroom, lounge and kitchen - several
of most of them, so I should be OK. The notice about snakes & other visitors
wasn't too encouraging.
"Please consider that you are in the country. This bring with it
occasional additional wildlife such as blow flies, field mice and
snakes."
Even the back garden was spectacular.
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A shower was much needed and an examination of my feet revealed no damage
of any sort. Excellent news. I then had a long rest before venturing across
the road to the pub for dinner.
There was another couple in the dining room when I arrived. By the time
I left, it was almost full. There were about a dozen tables there. The
zucchini, bacon and coriander soup was delicate and good. The steak, cooked
perfectly rare, was huge. It was far too much for me.
With it I had a couple of glasses of Riesling, both selected by the waitress.
As I later learned, there is a huge cellar under the place and anyone wanting
a whole bottle is sent down there to chose what they want. What is available
by the glass depends on what is left over. I had read good reviews of the
place on the WWW and they were justified.
I finished dinner with a final beer in the bar, the only other occupant
of which was a dog asleep in the corner. I had heard its Mummy & Daddy
discussing it in the restaurant. No sooner had I taken its photo than it
got up and rushed to the door - its family had finished dinner and were
leaving. I followed suit.
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In spite of the water I had consumed on the walk, the wine & beer with
the meal etc etc I drank lots of water and orange juice back at my cottage.
Just hope I sleep well and don't keep on having to get up during the night.
October 23
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